Boating Above the Fray - How to Whip a Rope

Rope is an amazing tool, and one that's been around for a long, long time.  Cordage made from twisting, weaving and/or braiding individually weak fibers together into a strong and flexible length may even mirror the rise of man, and rope thousands of years old, such as has been found in the lands of nearly every ancient civilization, looks remarkably like what we still use today.  Even the more exotic braided and double-braided rope available in our modern age is not that much different from the cordage, textiles and basketry used farther back then we can remember - almost certainly deep into the Old Stone Age.  The difference, of course, is in the materials and machinery used to make rope, but even with most modern synthetic weaves, rope's main weakness persists after all of these eons:  If you don't finish the ends, it will eventually turn right back into individual, weak fibers.

Before some old curmudgeon pipes up, let's first address the oft made statement that there is no rope on a boat.   People who say this (chuckleheads and seat-sniffers nearly one and all) mean that on a boat, you refer to "lines" and not "ropes."  Actually, "rope" is the material, and "line" is a designation of the use of that material.  You go to the chandler to buy rope, and when you employ it aboard, it usually becomes a line.  Two obvious exceptions being a "bolt-rope" and a "rode," neither of which is ever referred to as a "line."  Confused?  Well, let's not get needlessly technical here - suffice it to say that if the skipper shouts something like:  "I don't want to hear the word 'rope' again!"  You almost certainly will not be enjoying your day on the water.

Nonetheless, you don't cut the rope until you have need of a line, so we will be referring to "lines" from this point on when we are talking about a working part of the vessel, and "rope" as the material.  Now, along with that idiocy about ropes vs. lines, you may have also heard that sailors absolutely hate to cut a piece of rope/line/cordage.  That gross generalization is absolutely true.  Some will go to an almost pathological extent to avoid cutting any line - using sheep-shanks to shorten some, flemishing the extra tails on others so they don't trip over them - all because they believe that the very day (if not the absolute moment after) they cut a rope, they will suddenly need that extra length.  Which is also true - Murphy's law of rope cutting, if you will.

All that said, every bit of rope still has two ends, and every one of those ends on each rope must be dealt with in some way.  Whether on new line or old, it's a good winter project which allows you to work in front of the TV, and in the case of old ropes and lines, to bring the odor of your lockers, dock-box and lazarette home to the family room to serve as a sort of nautical potpourri.  After all, nothing says "This is the home of an off-season sailor" better than the mingled fragrances of mildew, old diesel, low-tide and melting dacron.  Which brings us to our first method:  Melting, which may or may not take place at the same time as when you...

Cut the line

Here is where the first major problem can occur.  3-strand rope is twisted and counter-twisted, as soon as you cut it, both of those twists will want to untwist.  To prevent this, we use adhesive tape - preferably plain old masking tape (you'll see why later).  Tightly wrap the spot you intend to cut, and all the little fibers on both ends of the cut will stay basically in place after you've severed them.  If you're using synthetic rope (not hemp, manila, jute, sisal, linen, cotton, animal fiber, etc.), the best tool for cutting the line is a "hot knife," and a decent hot knife will cut through the tape nearly as easily as the fibers beneath, leaving you with lines that are melted at the ends.

If you don't have a hot knife (or a hot knife fitting on a high wattage soldering iron), it's even more important to tape the point you wish to cut, and then cut it with a knife or appropriate shears.  If your rigging knife is not sharp enough to cut the line, then it's not going to do you much good when you need it, so now might be a good time to get out the whetstone, or to invest in a serrated knife if you're not willing to learn proper sharpening.  So-called "paramedic's shears" are also a good choice for smaller diameter ropes, and they will make a very useful addition to your boat's tool kit.  After you've made the cut, you will likely want to use a lighter or similar flame to melt the ends.

1.  Melting

If you have a line made of synthetic materials, the easiest way to prevent fray is to melt the rope ends - that's "easiest" and not "best" you may notice.  Done well, melted ends can outlast the line between them, but it's surprisingly difficult to do a good job, and it gets more difficult with thicker diameter cordage.  A small, dry piece of poly twine can be melted with a match.  A 2" nylon rope that's been in salt water may need a blowtorch to generate the heat needed to melt the interior strands to any depth.  Otherwise, only the very outside ends of the fibers will melt and bond together, and they'll crack and come apart as soon as the line is put to work.

That's why most people don't usually rely on melting alone for cordage bigger than about a quarter inch or 6-7 millimeters.  There are some sailors who do, certainly, but most cruisers opt for the ounce-of-prevention/stitch-in-time approach in all things, and lines are no exception.  Therefore, we basically see melting the ends of lines as a step and not an end unto itself (pun almost intended), with the exception of small lines.  However it is a step, even so, and should be done right.

One of the main issues is that the end of the rope will want to deform as it melts, often forming a "mushroom" shape that will never, ever want to be led through anything.  For this reason, it's best to leave the tape on the cut while you melt the end with a lighter or torch (in a WELL VENTILATED AREA!).  Then remove the tape before you continue into one of the next processes.  This will make the "melting only" method even less effective, but it will be much easier to progress into one of the better methods if the rope is an even diameter to the very end.

PRO
Fast (especially if you cut the rope with a hot knife)
Can be long lasting on small lines if done properly
Does not increase rope diameter (again, if performed correctly)

CON
Difficult to do properly, especially on large lines
Noxious and/or toxic smoke/fumes
Impossible to inspect fully

2.  Dipping

There is a product - very much like "liquid electric tape" (and it appears to be exactly like liquid "tool dip") - which allows you to simply dip the end of your lines into a jar of "synthetic rubber," and to pull out a nifty, plastic coated rope end.  The tough vinyl-based plastic adheres well to many ropes, and it is thin enough to not add substantially to the rope's diameter.  This treatment can last a long time, but likely will not outlast the rope itself, so it may require a re-dip.  These products come in colors, so that you can color-code your lines if you'd like.

The problems with this method are not all immediately obvious.  It's not exactly cheap, it's not truly permanent (in some cases the tip just pops off one day like a ferrule or "aglet" on a shoelace), it can add to the diameter of the line even if you're very careful, and it can detract from the look of a boat as it is so untraditional.  The big problem, however, is how do you keep the rope tightly wound while you dip it?  If you leave tape on, the "dip" won't stick as well, and if you whip it first, then what's the point?  This possibly explains why we've met very few sailors who have used the dipping method twice.

PRO
Fast (though you must wait for the product to air dry)
Long-lasting if not permanent
Easy color coding

CON
Toxic fumes
Messy process
Bad adhesion on certain materials
Can't keep the rope tight during the process
Difficult to inspect

3.  Whipping

Whipping is the traditional method for seizing the end of ropes against fray, and it has become a rather generic term in that respect.  It looks salty, permanent, and difficult, but it's actually only the first two.  Proper whipping isn't much more difficult than lacing a shoe, and if done right with good materials it is permanent.  Furthermore it does not increase the diameter of the line appreciably, and it is one of those little touches one expects to see on a well-kept yacht. 

Waxed hemp twine is the traditional material for whipping lines, but not the best by any means.  Basically, unless you are a complete traditionalist, you'll want a synthetic material with low stretch which is mildew-, UV- and abrasion-resistant.  You can certainly order many appropriate products from your chandler or rope manufacturer, many of which are made to look like traditional hemp, but for our purposes, we need go no further than the local drug store or market, because there's a very common material that makes for excellent rope whipping, plus it will leave your mouth minty-fresh!

Waxed dental floss or dental tape (tape is preferred by some), is readily available, easy to work with, and astonishingly long lasting.  It can be threaded through a needle if you would like to run the whipping through the rope a couple of times (recommended to prevent slipping, and here's where you'll be happy you used masking tape - as it isn't likely to leave glue behind to foul your needle), and the flavors generally available lend themselves very well to nautical color-coding.  That's cinnamon to port, and mint to starboard.

The actual method for whipping varies.  Some wrap the twine (floss) around the rope and then tuck the ends between and through the rope strands, wrapping the whipping itself in what is often called the "sailmaker's" whip.  Others tuck the ends back through the line and whipping to make what's called the "sailor's" whip.  Some tie a series of knots to create a "knotted" or "West Country" whip.  For our purposes, though, we're going to stick with a basic whip.

Starting a few inches from the end of the rope, make a loop.  Now tightly wrap the floss around the rope, working toward the rope's end, pinning the loop to the rope along the way.  When you reach the end (or have as many wraps as you need, tuck the line through the loop.  Now finish the whip by pulling both ends, and working the resulting bend under the whipping.  trim and melt the ends of the whipping line and the rope to finish.

PRO
The most time-tested way to stop fraying
Often outlasts the rope itself
Something to do in front of the TV on cold Winter nights
Easily inspected visually

CON
Time consuming
Requires some skill (though not much)

4. Shrinking

Adhesive shrink tubing is great stuff for electrical connections, and some say it's also great for whipping rope ends.  The jury is still out on this one, as we've heard that the shrink tubing just doesn't stand up as well to the elements as the other methods.  We have seen rope ends a couple of years old that still look good with the shrink tubing, but it has to last a decade or more to compete with some of the other methods.  If you've used this technique, please share your experiences.  Note that some people use shrink tubing over the top of another method such as whipping - which seems sort of like wearing both a belt and suspenders, but who are we to judge?

PRO
Easy to apply
Tough against abrasion
Multiple colors available

CON
Not Time Tested
Somewhat expensive material
Questionable resistance to UV, salt, etc.
Difficult to predict failure by inspection (except for obvious cracks, bleaching, or deformation)

5. Splicing

As impractical as it is, we couldn't conclude this without at least mentioning backsplicing.  As you might guess from the name, back-splicing is taking the end of the rope and splicing it back upon itself.  It is a beautiful way to finish a line, and allows one to really show off in terms of ropework, but it's not really as much a solution as it is a decoration.  The main issue is that there is no way to reliably backsplice without increasing the diameter of the line.  So while it looks great hanging from a ship's bell or a curtain pull, back-splicing is generally not suited for the end of a sheet, halyard, or even dockline.  Plus, for some, splicing three-strand rope can be the most frustrating of endeavors, and they may feel that even the idea belongs nowhere near anything to be considered as "recreation."

PRO
Salty as all Hell
Beautiful accent to a bristol yacht
Great "hand" (meaning it feels good and is easy to work with)
Simple to inspect

CON
Increases diameter and thus prevents feeding through leads and blocks
Time and labor intensive
Puts sanity at risk (or at least into question)

To sum things up, there are a lot of ways to finish the end of a rope (or line, or piece of cordage if you prefer).  One we didn't discuss are the mechanical clamps, the reason being that while they may make adequate stoppers (though a stopper knot is preferred for ease of release), they're really not well suited to preserving the rope end to which they are attached, and should be used in combination with one of the above methods.  What's the top choice?  Overall, #1 is the most common, #3 is the most reliable and time-tested, and #4 has the most potential for a quick, easy and permanent solution - but only time will tell.  Feedback, additional info., advice, etc. is appreciated, as always, in the comments below.

by Brad Hampton for YachtPals.com

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