Cruising Guide to the Northumberland Strait in Canada

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Cruising Guide to the Northumberland Strait in Canada

Northumberland Strait (#4423) - Canada
North Shore of Nova Scotia

• Northumberland Strait Marine Weather
• Marine Forecast New Brunswick - Nova Scotia - Prince-Edward Island
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The Gulf of St. Lawrence Sailing Directions should be every cruiser’s reference for information on currents and tidal effects, but predictions may be inaccurate following a period of consistent wind. The ebb, flowing to the east, will be stronger than expected near the coast after a day or more of steady westerlies. The charts accurately show the rocky patches and practically everywhere the bottom is mud or coarsely packed sand and good holding. Other useful cruising information may be obtained from the Barrachois Harbour Yacht Club website, www.angelfire.com/ns/BarrachoisYachtClub or the Northumberland Strait Yachting Association website, www.nstya.com

The bridge pictured here is the Confederation Bridge linking Cape Jourimain, New Brunswick (far shore) and Borden/Carleton, Prince Edward Island (foreground) and is the longest bridge over ice-covered water in the world. Their website, complete with webcam is at: http://www.confederationbridge.com/index.php

The Northumberland Strait is blessed with weather that is far more stable than on the Atlantic coast and near perfect visibility. It offers lots of sunshine, warm waters, a predictable force-four west or southwesterly wind, very little fog and unsurpassed sunsets. The strait, however, develops a short chop in breezy weather and has only a few happy harbours.There is a customary late-August storm with two to four days of heavy rain and strong winds from the north and east preceded by a long period of stable weather. Local shot duration squalls are more common than on the Atlantic, as are waterspouts. Pleasant sailing, however, is the rule.Yachts sailing in a westerly direction from the Strait of Canso will find good shelter in a number of small craft harbours. Havre Boucher and Ballantyne’s Cove are located in St. Georges Bay, and Arisaig—with 1.9 metres (6 ft) or less water at low tide—and Merigomish harbours lie to the east of Pictou Island.

Cruising yachts should note that the only marinas along the Nova Scotia side of the Northumberland Strait are located at Ballantyne's Cove, Pictou, New Glasgow and Barrachois Harbour. For this reason, you may wish to stock up on fuel and/or provisions at these locations.

The passage across St. Georges Bay is without obstruction and there is excellent shelter at Ballantyne’s Cove on the east tip of Cape George (Chart 4404). The only aids down the coast west to Pictou are the range lights at Arisaig and Lismore, but they not much help in daylight. The church steeples at these points, as well as Georgeville, however, are conspicuous to cruisers well offshore. A yacht can stand in within 0.5 miles of the shore with confidence at Lismore and for most of the remaining distance.

Antigonish Harbour Chart #4446

Antigonish Harbour (Chart #4446) extends more than four miles inland in a south-westerly direction, but it is almost inaccessible without local knowledge. The best advice is to anchor offshore and explore with a dinghy. Pictou Island has good lights and is a good landmark. Passage making can be either to the north or south of it, but give the island a half mile or more at Seal Point at its eastern end. There is a cardinal buoy off the east end of Pictou Island, (SP) N45° 49’ 36” W062 29’ 48”, marking a reef southeast of Seal Point known locally as the Asadalia. It is directly in the line on a course from the cardinal buoy to the Pictou fairway buoy (SJ (RW) N 45° 42' 03 W062° 36' 42). From Pictou to Caribou there are several reefs, but they are well marked on Charts 4404 and 4437.

Havre Boucher #4448

Havre Boucher (45°41’N; 61°31’W), about 1.5 miles from North Canso Light, is handy for anyone who has passed through the lock going north and is looking for a place to hole up for the night. It is pretty, secluded and easy to enter and exit. Chart 4448 provides a large-scale view of the harbour, but Chart 4462 is perfectly adequate. Follow the range marked by two fixed red lights on white towers bearing 194.5º (true). Once inside, red and green buoys mark the shallow areas. Except for the area leading to the government wharf, the harbour tends to shoal more on the west than the east side. Anchor anywhere you can find room. The holding ground is reported to be uniformly good. The harbour is partially exposed to the northeast, but is reasonably safe in anything short of a northeast gale. Some 3.1 metres (10 ft) can be carried to the government wharf just west of the entrance. Basic supplies can be had at the village, but no water or fuel is available.

Ballantyne’s Cove #4404

Ballantyne’s Cove (45°51.5’N; 61°55’W; Charts 4404, 4462) is an excellent harbour located 1.2 miles southwest of the Cape George Lighthouse, which is visible for many miles in clear weather. The harbour consists of a 400-foot L-shaped breakwater and new floating docks and finger piers in 2003. No basic supplies are available here.Owned and maintained by Ballantyne’s Cove Harbour Authority, a small overnight berthing fee ($18 for vessels to thirty-five feet, slightly more for larger boats) is charged. Shore power is available, (15A only, bring LONG extension cords!) but no dockside water. The Harbour Authority currently has no VHF capability, but may be reached by phone at (902) 863-8162. There is 3.7 metres (12 ft) of water at low tide and washrooms and showers ($2 for shower) are available as well as fuel (gasoline and diesel) and ice. The Harbour Authority office, with a very helpful staff member on hand from 0800 to 2100, is located in the Tuna Interpretive Centre building where visitors can watch a short video about tuna fishing in the area and various displays. Twenty-four-hour video surveillance is in place. A pay phone is located conveniently beside the office. If your arteries are up to it, be sure to hike up the mountain to the lighthouse for a breathtaking view. A fish and chip stand ("Fish 'N' Ships") is on-site, handy for the cook who would like the night off. Area fishermen are very friendly and most accommodating to advise you whether or not you should venture out of port that day.

Merigomish Harbour #4445

This beautiful, unspoiled harbour is not often visited by cruising yachts, although it is one of the few good sheltered anchorages on the north shore of Nova Scotia. The entrance to Merigomish Harbour (45°38.5’N; 62°28’W) is easily negotiated by following the channel buoys. Various anchorages are possible, with the choice depending on wind direction. The nearest is a few hundred metres east of Savage Point in 7 to 9 metres (4 to 5 fathoms). The holding ground is excellent, but a Bahamian moor is advisable because of the considerable tidal current.The harbour extends five miles to the east and four miles southwest up a scenic bay dotted with islands and coves. No fuel, water or supplies are available on Big Island. The village of Merigomish (pop. 200) is reachable by tender by following a well-buoyed channel up French River. Groceries and gas are available at the excellent general store. Use caution as the tidal streams between Savage Point and Dulse Rocks frequently run up to five knots, but within the harbour the rate is generally less than 1.5 knots. Refer to Chart 4445. Pictou Yacht Club maintains a mooring in Blackhall Gut for the use of any yachts visiting the area.

Pictou Harbour #4437

The entrance to Pictou Harbour (45°41.5’N; 62°40’W; Chart 4437) is straightforward with two ranges and several channel buoys providing assistance. Pictou (pop. 5000) was founded by United Empire Loyalists who arrived from Philadelphia aboard the ship Betsy in 1767. Six years later the ship Hector arrived with Scottish immigrants.

Pictou has all the amenities required by the visiting cruiser, including a shipyard with a 3000-tonne capacity slip, a 1000-tonne capacity floating dry dock and all the necessary equipment and skilled labour for repairs.

• Hector Quay Visitors Marina (VHF 16/68, phone (902) 485-6960), features a full-scale replica of the Hector, as well as an interpretive centre. Operators at the Hector Quay Marina recommend that cruisers reserve a berth, particularly if space is required during a weekend or festival. This facility offers fresh water, power, laundry and showers; berths and moorings rent by the day or week. No fuel is available here. Tim Horton’s, stores, restaurants, banks and post office are within a short walking distance.
• The Pictou Marina (902-485-1162), has a paved launch ramp, a 10-tonne travel lift, a mast crane, water and fuel dock, showers and a marine supply store. There are usually a few dock spaces for rent for visiting boats. When approaching Pictou Marina, honour starboard hand buoy SJ 12 at Campbell Point at the entrance to the marina and favor the left side of the channel. Do not be alarmed at the narrowness of this entrance. These marina facilities are used by members of the Pictou Yacht Club (www.pictouyachtclub.ca). The basin is also shared by the Canadian Coast Guard Inshore Rescue Unit.

New Glasgow #4443

New Glasgow, situated on the East River, is the largest community accessible from the Northumberland Strait.

The entrance to the East River is well marked. Follow buoy SJ-20 from Abercrombie Point up the estuary to SJ-40 at the Trenton Highway Bridge. Clearance under the bridge is 23 feet at high tide, limiting access to power vessels and only the smallest sailboats. The minimum depth in the channel is 12 feet. En route you will pass Ballast Island, a dumping point for stone ballast from the thousands of commercial sailing vessels that once frequented these waters.The Coast Guard buoys continue through SJ-52. Red and green markers maintained by the New Glasgow Riverfront Marina continue in an “S” turn that hugs the western side of the river. From there the well-marked channel takes you into downtown New Glasgow and the Riverfront Marina with a 14-foot depth at dockside.

The marina includes a visitor centre, showers and washrooms, electricity, pump-out and garbage disposal. A tender service is available for a nominal fee for boats moored on the opposite side of the river. The Samson Walking Trail runs along the west side of the river, starting with a look-off located on a bluff overlooking the river and continuing to the Stellarton town boundary, a distance of 2.5 kilometres. Just up the street from the southern end of the walking trail is the Nova Scotia Museum of Industry where the original Samson steam locomotive is located. The Samson trail route marks the start of the ribbon of steel which united Canada from coast to coast.

Caribou #4483

The Prince Edward Island ferry terminal in Caribou is a safe haven for anchoring with good holding ground and a well-marked entrance. The harbour extends 1.5 miles westerly and 0.75 miles easterly. The Fisherman’s Wharf is operated by the Caribou Port Authority and is the departure point for a passenger ferry to Pictou Island. Day trips on both ferries are highly recommended.

Pictou Island #4404

A wharf on the south side of Pictou Island about a mile from the west end is an ideal location for a picnic and a day at the beach. Depth at the entrance does not exceed 1.2 metres (4 ft) at low water. Cruisers may pass safely to the north or south of the island, remembering to give a wide berth to Seal Point at its eastern end.

Amet Sound and Amet Island #4497

Entrance to Amet Sound, John Bay, Brule Harbour, Barrachois Harbour and Tatamagouche Bay (Chart 4497), can be made either to the east or west of Amet Island, which is square in shape and easily recognized. There is a light on Amet Island (FlW 39 ft. 4s). Lobster season here is from May 1 to June 30 during which time there are many lobster pot buoys around the Island. A sharp lookout is required. You will not be thanked if you cut off a buoy with your propeller.

Eastern Passage If heading for Barrachois Harbour using the eastern passage, keep to the south of the red buoy UA2 (N45° 49' 13 W063° 07' 43) at the east end of the Island and steer 259 degrees magnetic until abeam of UD3 (QG) (N 45° 46' 11 W063° 13' 00) off Jollimore's Reef, then 240 degrees magnetic to UD 4 (QR) (N 45° 45' 10 W063° 14' 27) at Chambers' Point, then 233 degrees magnetic to the channel entrance UD 4.2 (FlR) (N 45° 44' 15 W063° 15' 34).

Middle Passage There is a buoy to the northwest of Amet Island, UE 2, (R) (N 45° 51' 04 W063° 12' 43) marking Waugh Shoal which has 3.1 metres (11 ft) and need not be of concern under normal conditions.

The Barrachois Harbour Yacht Club maintains five hefty moorings (yellow buoys with 625 lb concrete blocks with stainless steel shackles in a trot) between UE2 and UE6 off Malagash Point at Saddle Island (N 45° 48’ 30” W 063° 14’ 21”). Visiting vessels are welcome to use the moorings if not occupied by BHYC boats. These moorings, however, are open to the northeast. If heading for Barrachois Harbour using Middle Passage it is fairly straightforward, stay between UE2 and Amet Island and steer 215 degrees magnetic until UE 6 (FlR) (N 45° 47' 45 W063° 13' 05) to the south of Malagash Point is fetched, then 220 degrees magnetic to UD 4 (FlR) at Chambers' Point, then 233 degrees magnetic to the channel entrance UD 4.2 (FlR). There is a private buoy (VQR), maintained by BHYC, at the turn in the channel for easier navigation at night.

Barrachois Harbour Yacht Club and Sunrise Shore Marina

To arrive at BHYC and Sunrise Shore Marina http://www.sunrisemarinacottages.ca/yacht-port-sunrise-shore-marina.html (VHF 68, phone (902) 657-1058), formerly Barrachois Marina, continue in the well-marked channel and stay in the middle. A group of large trees on the hill to the southwest are conspicuous. Vessels should exercise caution entering the channel (UD 4.2 (FlR) N45° 44’ 15” W063° 15’ 34”) as LWS tides leave very little water present. All vessels may safely enter or exit four hours after low tide or up to two hours after high tide. The channel bottom is soft mud and keel damage is unlikely. (Two BHYC moorings (yellow buoys) at N 45° 44’ 50” W063° 15’ 06”, 0.9 miles SW of UD4 may be used while waiting for favourable tide conditions to enter the marina.) Entering the well-marked channel is easy, but be sure to stay in the middle until the turn to port, then slightly favour the green cans. A small red buoy just outside the marina entrance warns of a rocky shoal that could snare the unwary. Leave this buoy to starboard on entrance. The fuel dock is on your starboard side just past the travelift crib and slipway.

Sunrise Shore Marina, 405 Brule Shore Road (all floating docks and finger piers), has dockside gasoline (the only dockside gas between New Brunswick and Pictou) and shore power. Diesel delivery can be arranged. A 10-tonne self-propelled travelift, cradle mover, boom truck for mast stepping and unstepping and vessel storage facilities are available as well. The marina has amenities (chalets as well as showers, washrooms, laundry facilities, fresh water and WiFi.) Overnight berthing fees are reasonable, $20, with a small charge for shore power. Pumpout facilities are not yet available. Visiting vessels are welcome to use the BHYC gazebo/clubhouse facilities. (A $1 donation to the propane fund would be appreciated if you decide to use the club BBQ's). It is a bit of a hike into Tatamagouche, (3 miles) but there is usually a friendly BHYC member around to take you into the village for restaurant meals, groceries, service stations and the Liquor Store (open until 9 pm every night except Sunday). Sunrise Shore Marina is extremely well protected by a huge breakwater, surviving Hurricanes Gustav (2002) and Juan (2003) unscathed.

Sunrise Shore Marina is home to Barrachois Harbour Yacht Club with some forty vessels. Club racing is held Wednesday evenings and on weekends. BHYC has a website, www.angelfire.com/ns/BarrachoisYachtClub or Yahoo/ Google keyword- Barrachois, where a wealth of local information is available including waypoint locations for virtually the entire Northumberland Strait from the Strait of Canso westward, as well as Lennox Passage and Cape Breton's Bras d'Or Lakes. Additions to the site are made almost daily.

Wallace Harbour #4402

Wallace (45°49’N, 63°24’W; Chart 4402) is a pretty little village with an extremely well-protected harbour. There is only 2.8 metres (9 ft) over Oak Island Bar at extreme low tide, but there is seldom a sea. The channel is narrow and winding, but once the outer Mo(A) flasher is picked up, the ranges on Mullins and Macfarlane Points are prominent and the entrance is not difficult. An ebb tide of over a knot and a half is possible. Plan to power in. The inner range ends at a green buoy placed in the middle of the entrance to Lazy Bay. From it, proceed visually to the next green buoy, just off the lighthouse (which is the lower leading light) at Macfarlane Point.Anchor mid-channel off the lighthouse at Macfarlane Point or tie-up at the government wharf. The outer end of this wharf is reported to have 3.7 metres (12 ft) at low water. Groceries, water and fuel are available within walking distance.

On leaving Wallace Harbour (Chart 4402), keep to the second range as far east as the outer buoy. On turning north from it, 010º (mag.), you will leave Oak Island safely about a half-mile to port. Keep offshore when heading for Pugwash and pick up the buoy east of Ballast Ground.

Pugwash Harbour #4498

Pugwash Harbour (45°51’N, 63°40’W; Chart 4498) is an attractive town where the street signs are in English and Gaelic and there is a Gathering of the Clans every July. The outer red flashing buoy marks the east side of Ballast Shoal, which most yachts need not be concerned about. At the next mark – a red spar a mile south of Ballast Shoal – the ranges should be apparent and followed in carefully. The channel in from Pugwash Bar is very narrow and, though well buoyed, keep strictly to the last two ranges. The last range ends between a pair of buoys almost on a line between Fox and Pineo Points. From these, keep in the centre of the channel until you turn southward around the red flasher at Page Point (NK32).

• Anchor in the pool south of the wharf. This area is sometimes crowded with restricted swing room, but there is good holding ground.
• Cruisers may also tie up at the south side of the government wharf where there is 6.2 metres (20 ft) of water at low tide.
• The fisherman’s wharf west of the public wharf is another possible resting place and the Pugwash Yacht Club to the south has a few floating docks, but these are usually full.

Powerful tidal currents occur in this harbour so plan to power in.

Pugwash offers basic necessities, food stores and restaurants, and there is a liquor store within walking distance. Delivery of fuel can be arranged from either wharf.

Baie Verte #4406

Boats drawing more than 0.9 metres (3 ft) should use caution if seeking shelter in Northport, Tidnish River or Port Elgin. Northport, near Baie Verte, is the last small craft harbour before the New Brunswick border. Baie Verte is a sizable refuge and offers good holding ground in most weather; anchor 0.75 miles offshore almost anywhere in the bay. The lights of Coldspring Head and Port Elgin are the only aids, except for the red and green buoys off Tidnish River and the pair of reds off Fort Monckton Point.