Galapagos Islands Cruising Guide

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Galapagos Islands Cruising Guide

-0.571280   -90.615234      ec

The Galapagos Islands are a small archipelago of islands belonging to Ecuador in the western Pacific Ocean. The islands are quite remote and isolated, lying some 620 miles (1000 km) west of the South American continent. The Galapagos archipelago consists of 13 main islands and 6 smaller isles, which together embrace some 19,500 sq miles (50,000 sq km) of ocean.

 

CONTENTS - Galapagos Islands Cruising Guide

About the Galapagos Islands
List of the Galapagos Islands
Things to do on the Galapagos Islands
Snorkeling & scuba diving around the Galapagos Islands
Galapagos Islands Rules and Respect
Travel Permits for Boats in the Galapagos Islands
Galapagos Islands Check In Fees for Cruisers
Provisioning in the Galapagos Islands
Fuel in the Galapagos Islands
Banking in the Galapagos Islands
Souvenir Shopping - Galapagos Islands
Other Services in the Galapagos Islands
Anchorages in the Galapagos Islands
Isla San Cristobal: Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (Wreck Bay)
Isla Santa Cruz: Puerto Ayora (Academy Bay)
Isla Isabela: Puerto Villamil
Isla Baltra: Puerto Seymour
Isla Santa Maria (Floreana): Puerto Ibarra
Galapagos Islands Marine Weather

-- About the Galapagos Islands --

 

The Galápagos archipelago is world-renowned for its unique and fearless wildlife - much of which was inspiration for Charles Darwin's Theory of Natural Selection. The islands are therefore very popular amongst natural historians, both professional and amateur. Giant tortoises, sea lions, penguins, marine iguanas and different bird species can all be seen and approached. The landscape of the islands is relatively barren and volcanic, but beautiful nonetheless. The highest mountain amongst the islands is Volcán Wolf on Isla Isabela, at 5600 feet high.

The Galápagos were claimed by newly-independent Ecuador in 1832, a mere three years before Darwin's visit on the Beagle. During the 19th and early 20th centuries the islands were inhabited by very few settlers and were used as a penal colony, the last closing in 1959 when the islands were declared a national park. The Galapagos were subsequently listed as a World Heritage Site in 1978.

Strict controls on tourist access are maintained in an effort to protect the natural habitats and all visitors must be accompanied by a national park-certified naturalist tour guide. The islands currently receive an average of 60,000 visitors per year.

The Galapagos Islands have a highly variable climate, as does Ecuador's mainland. June to November sees the Garua season when the islands can be misty. January to March is the rainy season. Each month brings unique climate variations and wildlife viewing opportunities. Generally speaking, the best months to visit are April, May and November.

 

-- List of the Galapagos Islands --

* Baltra & Seymour
* Darwin & Wolf
* Espanola
* Fernandina
* Floreana
* Genovesa
* Isabela - the largest island
* Marchena
* Pinta
* Pinzon
* Rabida
* San Cristobal
* Santa Cruz - the main island and population centre
* Santa Fe
* Santiago
* South Plaza

 

 

-- Things to do on the Galapagos Islands --

 

• Climb the hill on Bartolome for the classic Galapagos view
• Visit the Giant Tortoise breeding centre at the Charles Darwin Research Centre on Santa Cruz.
• See the red neck sacks of the Magnificent Frigatebird on Seymour.
• Visit unique species like the Galapagos penguin and Galapagos flamingo on Isabela or Floreana.
• Go snorkeling as often as possible.
• Visit the Charles Darwin Foundation research stations located throughout the islands, including a large station in Puerto Ayora that is worth visiting for its animal and natural history exhibits.

-- Snorkeling & scuba diving around the Galapagos Islands --

 

Snorkeling and diving are very popular activities as the sea life is so rich and colourful.

Snorkeling equipment should be available from a tour operator (but check first) if you don't have your own. You may also want to bring a waterproof camera. Remember to wear at least a T-shirt and suntan lotion if you are snorkeling, as it's all to easy to get sunburnt in the strong sun.

Diving in the Galapagos is incredible as noted by Rodale's Scuba Diving Magazine. Ranked as the best dive destination in the world in the categories of Healthiest Marine Environment, Best Big Animal Dive and Best Advanced Diving.

 

 

 

-- Galapagos Islands Rules and Respect --

 

The park is strictly regulated. Outside of the towns visitors should be accompanied by guides, and visitors are only allowed on land from sunrise until sunset. Itineraries should be registered with the park prior to embarking on a trip, and animals should never be disturbed. While the wildlife in the Galapagos will usually ignore your presence, a general rule of thumb is that if an animal notices your presence then you are too close. Two meters is generally given as a minimum distance to keep away from animals; you will find that if you are calm and respectful that many animals will walk right up to investigate you.

One of the greatest dangers to the islands is introduced species. The park service is trying to eliminate goats, rats, cats, dogs, and introduced plant species on many of the islands, but it is a difficult battle; after evolving for thousands of years without predators, the Galapagos wildlife is not adapted to handle these new species. When traveling to the islands, do not bring any plant or animal life with you, and be sure to always clean your footwear when traveling between islands to avoid accidentally transferring seeds.

TOUR GUIDES:
There are many "tour guides" that will take you on any tour you want to go on. Some are licensed and do a better job than others. If you have even a little Spanish and have studied the cultural and natural history of the islands, you may get away most cheaply with a taxi driver who will tour you in Spanish. English speaking guides are more expensive. Shop around and get the best deal that you can, considering your needs and desires. Some guides monitor channel 16 and 14.

Follow the instructions of your guide to protect the wildlife. You are not allowed off the marked paths, but this is not a problem as the animals are so tame they will sit right on the path or cross it without caring about mere tourists.

 

The codified park rules are:

1. No plant, animal, or remains of such (including shells, bones, and pieces of wood), or other natural objects should be removed or disturbed.
2. Be careful not to transport any live material to the islands, or from one island to another.
3. Do not take any food to the uninhabited islands, for the same reason.
4. Do not touch or handle the animals.
5. Do not feed the animals. It can be dangerous to you, and in the long run would destroy the animals' social structure and breeding habits.
6. Do not startle or chase any animal from its resting or nesting spot.
7. Stay within the areas designated as visitor sites.
8. Do not leave any litter on the islands, or throw any off your boat.
9. Do not deface the rocks.
10. Do not buy souvenirs or objects made of plants or animals from the islands.
11. Do not visit the islands unless accompanied by a licensed National Park Guide.
12. Restrict your visits to officially approved areas.
13. Show your conservationist attitude.
14. Fishing on board tourist ships is not permitted.
15. Fire or smoking is not permitted.
16. Camping at authorized sites requires a permit
17. Professional filming requires special authorization from the Park Director

 

-- TRAVEL PERMITS FOR BOATS IN THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS --

 

-- Autografo or Cruising Permit --
The Port Captains appear to be uniformly enforcing the law requiring a cruising permit.

The latest information is as of Feb 2008, from boats stopping at the Galapagos without a cruising permit, who were being granted up to 20 days but were restricted to the port of entry and NOT ALLOWED to travel to other ports. Boats arriving with a cruising permit (Autografo) in hand are given up to 30 days with the possibility of a 30 day extension and can visit and the following inhabited ports: are Pto. B. Moreno, Isla San Cristobal; Pto. Ayora, Isla Santa Cruz; Pto. Villamil, Isla Isabela; Pto. Seymour, Isla Baltra; and Pto. Ibarra, Isla Floreana.

In the past you could obtain an Autografo yourself but this required a trip to Quito and some waiting time.

Three known agents can provide services for Autografos. Tripp Martin of Puerto Amistad (puertoamistadecuador @ yahoo.com), Johnny Romero (Santa Cruz, nautigal @ interactive.net.ec) and Bolivar Pesantes/Grace Romero (San Cristobal, naugala @hotmail.com).

Notes from from S/V Migration about cruising permits in the Galapagos Islands:
"Here's the latest info we have on obtaining an Autografo in the Galapagos (permit to move among the 5 ports).

Yesterday Bolivar came aboard our boat and he had our Autografo in hand. We were quite surprised. We had been in contact with Grace Romero (Nauguala Agency) via email, but we thought the process was stalled. We had contacted many agents in late 2007 and sometimes received a response and sometimes did not. We did get a quote from Grace for $200 and we sent our documentation via email to her. However, we did not confirm that we wanted to have her get an autografo for us until she confirmed that there were no additional fees above the $200 (to their agency) and that we could indeed go to all 5 ports. We did not receive confirmation. However, when we arrived in San Cristobal, Galapagos, we had an email
waiting saying that she needed our boat documentation for 2008 since she had our documentation that expired in December 2007. (That was because we originally sent our documents to her in 2007!). Since we were now in the Galapagos we thought it was too late for everything and didn't even respond.

Then, yesterday, Grace's husband Bolivar came aboard with our Autografo. We were shocked. I do have to say he was VERY professional. He had a friend with him who spoke perfect English and he explained everything. The cost was $200 which is what we were quoted originally. He went with us to the Port Captain to take make sure everything was OK. Unfortunately it was late and the Captain wasn't there so we will go back today. He gave us his card and said if we have ANY problems in ANY port in the Galapagos just call his or Grace's mobile.

The Autografo allows us to stay in the Galapagos for 60 days. So, it IS possible to obtain an Autografo. Grace will need the following via email at naugala @ hotmail.com:
Boat Documentation
Crew List
Copies of Passports of all onboard
Approximate arrival date (and departure if you know it)

That's what we know now. We do not know how much the fees are in each
port.

We do know that you need a zarpe from each port captain and that the fees for the zarpe are not expensive (a megayacht paid $6 for their
zarpe here in San Cristobal). There are probably additional fees. We will find out when we move to another island.

Cheers, Bruce & Alene - s/v Migration"

-- ZARPE --

Zarpe - There are two basic entry situations; either arriving from Ecuador on a National (internal) Zarpe, or arriving with an International Zarpe from either Ecuador or another country:

-- Arriving from Ecuador on National Zarpe --

To check out of a port on mainland Ecuador to the Galapagos on a National Zarpe, you must have been issued a DIGMER cruising permit.

Option 1 --

In Bahía, Tripp Martin, Puerto Amistad will write the application letter in Spanish. It is signed by the boat captain and faxed to DIGMER, along with copies of the following documents: proposed crew list, boat documentation or registration, copies of passports of all crew, copies of “recepción” and “despacho” receipts from your initial check in with Migración, copies of the “lights and buoys” and check-in receipts you received from the Port Captain from your initial check-in, and copy of a national zarpe if you already have one from a previous trip up or down the coast. There is a $50 fee to Puerto Amistad for this service, which includes follow up with DIGMER by Puerto Amistad to assure that the permit comes through in a timely manner. A copy of the permit needs to be given to the mainland Port Captain in order for him to check you out on a national zarpe to the Galapagos.

Option 2 --

A cruising permit may also be obtained by the agent NAUGALA (offices on Islas Santa Cruz and San Cristobal) by emailing or faxing information to them prior to arrival. The details follow. The agent should be directed to fax a copy of the permit, when issued, to your local mainland Port Captain. The cost for NAUGALA to obtain the permit is about $50 from the San Cristobal office and about $150 from the Santa Cruz office. You will receive your copy of the permit when you check in with the agent and pay his fee. Therefore, the agent you choose will determine your first port of call in the Galapagos. Tell the agent you just want the permit, without other agent services, to minimize cost. It is NOT necessary, at this time, to have an agent check you in to the Galapagos:

The following information needs to be emailed or faxed in advance of your arrival:
Name of boat:
Ships Flag:
Registration Number:
Length in meters:
Width in meters:
Depth in meters:
Gross Tonnage:
Color:
Propulsion, motor or sail:
Captains Name:
Names of Crew:
Arrival Port:
Date of Arrival:
Date of Departure:
Length of stay, number of Days:
Type of visit: Tourist-Only ports or Populated Centers

- NAUGALA On Isla San Cristobal -
Email or FAX the information listed above (in advance of your arrival at San Cristobal) to:
Naugala Cyber
Bolivar Pesantes, General Manager
Email: naugala @ hotmail.com
Fax: 593-5-2520846
Phone: 593-5-252-0958
Bolivar prefers 20 to 30 days notice, but may be able to get the permit more quickly.
The cost is about $50 per vessel.

- NAUGALA On Isla Santa Cruz -
Send the information listed above to:
Naugala, Galapagos Yacht Services
Puerto Ayora
Johnny Romero, Manager
Email: nautilagalapagos@interactive.net.ec
Phone: 593-5-252-7403
Cell: 593-9-926-4355
The cost is approximately $150 per vessel.

After receiving fax confirmation that a permit has been issued, the Bahia Port Captain – and presumably the one in Puerto Lucia – will then issue a National Zarpe for the Galapagos. You must still have time on your Ecuadorian visa to do this. When ready to leave the Galapagos, either return to the mainland on a new national zarpe or get an international zarpe in the islands and check out with immigration for another country. You can get an international zarpe from Port Captains at Pto. Moreno (San Cristobal), Pto. Ayora (Santa Cruz) or Isla Baltra, but immigration offices are only in Pto. Moreno and Pto. Ayora. If checking out of Baltra, you must travel to Pto. Ayora by bus/cab to get immigration clearance. There are no immigration offices at Isla Isabela or Isla Floreana.

Option 3 --

It is theoretically possible to go through the permitting process yourself. However, without follow up, the chance of the permit actually being issued in a timely manner is low. Some boats have had the application letter written and faxed it to the appropriate authority 30-60 days in advance, and when nothing was heard, were able to visit the DIGMER office in Quito and get the permit issued during their stay.

-- Arriving from Ecuador or Elsewhere on an International Zarpe --

Option 1: You can get a DIGMER permit from NAUGALA or Puerto Amistad in advance of your arrival in the Galapagos from a foreign port (checked out on an International Zarpe either to the Galapagos or another destination), which will allow you the same privileges in the islands as described above. Follow the same process for obtaining the permit. Theoretically, you can also apply to DIGMER yourself from afar, but you’ve already heard about the difficulties there.

Option 2: If you arrive on an International Zarpe, either from Ecuador or a foreign port, without a DIGMER permit, AND you can demonstrate a problem that requires a stop in the islands, you will be allowed to stay for as long as it takes to fix the problem (presumably within reason). Theoretically, you can only stay in that one port and then must leave the Galapagos. Needing fuel or water would qualify, but would be easily and quickly correctable and wouldn’t get you much time in the islands. The Port Captains in Ayora and Villamil are being particularly analytical about assessing the severity of your “problem” and may send a representative out to take a look at things. They are friendly and helpful and will even give advice on where in the islands the problem can be rectified – but it no longer seems to be a blanket “ok, you can stay for 21 days” situation, as in past years. You may be allowed to go on to another island if your problem cannot be dealt with wherever you first arrive. You may or may not be actually checked in to Ecuador, depending upon whether there is an immigration office in the port where you arrive. If you are checked in, then you’ll have to get a new international zarpe when you leave for your foreign destination. This seems to be a very “hit and miss” situation, and depends a lot on which officer you deal with, how persuasive you are, the phase of the moon, etc. Good luck!

-- The Bottom Line about Cruising Permits in the Galapagos Islands--
A little prior planning for a permit ensures a “no problema” reception in the islands and a relaxing stay of 30 or more days, with visits to 5 islands on your own boat.

 

 

 

-- GALAPAGOS ISLANDS CHECK IN FEES --

 

Fees vary somewhat from port to port. The most expensive port is Santa Cruz. If you use an agent to check you in, it will be even MORE expensive, since the agents are held to the letter of the law, which includes having a current Fumigation Certificate. In Santa Cruz, this costs about $60, and a guy actually comes out to your boat with stuff he injects in various corners and crevices. Fumigation outfits in Panama are reportedly telling cruisers about this requirement and offering their services for $100! However, boats which checked in to Puerto Ayora and did NOT use an agent were not asked by the Port Captain for a fumigation certificate. Some fees are dependent upon gross tonnage. There is a fairly pricey Galapagos Lights and Buoys Fee. Count on about $150 in fees for a 42’, 26 gross ton boat.

AS OF THIS WRITING, cruisers are not being charged the $100 per person National Park Fee but this can change at any time. Tourists arriving by air pay this fee at the airport, so if you have guests coming to meet you there, they must be prepared to pay, in cash. Organized tours are supposed to check to see that all guests have a receipt for the park fee, but unless you are going on a live aboard boat tour, they don’t seem to ask for proof of payment.

 

 

 

-- PROVISIONING IN THE GALAPAGOS --

 

All towns have small tiendas where you can get most provisions, although it is more expensive than Ecuador and hit and miss, depending on when the supply boat was last there. Count on prices being 2 to 3 times more than mainland Ecuador, especially in Puerto Ayora. Santa Cruz had a large Gringo type market with a good
selection of US provisions and a good wine and liquor selection. There is a very good local market just north of town in Puerto Ayora. Several stores on all islands will sell Pilsener beer, if you have bottles to return. MUSIC was able to buy a case of 12 in Isabela but had to pay the deposit for the empties (total of $20) and were unable to get the deposit refunded. There is one small tienda in Isabela that gets fresh fruits and veggies flown in once every two weeks, and will take your order for something special if you are there at the right time (order by Friday for a Monday or Tuesday delivery). Also on Isabela a great panadería which is only open after 4pm. There are no stores on Baltra, except for a few tourist-type stalls at the airport.

 

 

 

-- FUEL IN THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS --

 

San Cristobal, Santa Cruz and Isabela have gas stations, where you can get gasoline and diesel. At all the above ports, there are folks who will deliver fuel to your boat, either in your own jerry jugs or in bulk containers to be siphoned into your tank. Be aware that the gas stations MAY be out of fuel if you try to fill up right before the next tanker is due to arrive. There is also a fuel barge (which services tour boats) that can deliver large quantities.

 

 

 

-- BANKING IN THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS --

 

San Cristobal and Santa Cruz have banks with ATMs, but you may need to go inside with a copy of your passport and ATM card, depending upon which type it is (go early to do this, as banks get very crowded and you might wait hours in line late in the day on a Monday, for example). Others were able to use Master Card/Debit Card at the ATM in Ayora ($300 limit in this case.) S/V MUSIC did have cash wired via "Money Gram" for a 8% fee on the sending side. There is a Money Gram office on Isla Isabela, but no bank. Take lots of cash – most places either don’t take credit cards or add a hefty surcharge.

 

 

 

-- SOUVENIR SHOPPING - GALAPAGOS ISLANDS --

 

About twice as expensive as on the mainland:
Isla San Cristobal: Many shops along the malecon where you can find a large variety of tee shirts and stuff.
Isla Santa Cruz: Many shops, some very high end, along the main road in town and some on the side streets.
You can find almost anything you would want here. The Darwin gift shop is within the center itself and part of
the proceeds go to the Darwin Research. The gift shop at the entrance to the area leads you to believe that they
are the official store. They are not.
Isla Isabela: Very limited shopping, get your souvenirs in Santa Cruz.
Isla Baltra: There are a few vendors selling tee shirts and stuff at the airport.

 

 

 

-- OTHER SERVICES IN THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS --

 

There are decent lavanderias in Puerto Ayora and Puerto Moreno that machine wash and dry with same day service. There are machine wash, line dry lavanderías at Puerto Villamil.
Numerous cyber cafes in Ptos. Ayora and Moreno, one in Pto. Villamil.
There is no sailmaker here (San Cristobal).
Electrical work (from Vilisar about San Cristobal):
Tony (an Americanised local) brought Miguel out to the boat to solicit electrical business. We needed a look at our alternator-voltage regulator-battery setup which Miguel did very competently at about $15 an hour. He also went and fetched the replacement voltage regulator to be installed as part of the deal. We paid him $100 all found (including $32 for voltage regulator). He cleaned up all the contacts as well. It is hard to get a price from the outset since they dive right into the engine room and start to work. We dickered a bit at the end but were relieved to have the work done well and paid him what he asked.

 

 

-- ANCHORAGES IN THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS --

 

Unless you make (very expensive) prior arrangements for a special permit, and carry a licensed guide aboard, private yachts may only anchor at these five inhabited ports.
Isla San Cristobal: Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (Wreck Bay)
Isla Santa Cruz: Puerto Ayora (Academy Bay)
Isla Isabela: Puerto Villamil
Isla Baltra: Puerto Seymour
Isla Santa Maria (Floreana): Puerto Ibarra

Trips to other islands must be done by charter, with a licensed guide.

 

 

-- Isla San Cristobal: Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (Wreck Bay) --

 

Entry Information: On approach, stay clear of the SE point. Come in midway between the North point of land, which has a lighthouse on it and the northernmost of 2 tall, white/yellow, lighted buoys, with a short red one in the middle. The red buoy marks a wreck or pinnacle and the waves break quite high near it, so be aware and stay clear. Also, don’t come too close to the lighthouse point, as there is a big surf break there and shallow water.

Waypoints (from SHE WOLF):
Approach: 00º 53.00’S 089º 37.00’W
Entry 1: 00º 53.37 089º 37.11
Entry 2: 00º 53.66 089º.36.96

Anchorage:
00º 53.78 089º 36.80
Anchorage Notes: Good holding sand bottom but with big rocky patches which show up from the deck in 30’ clear water. On the Southern side, near the Navy buildings, it may be calmer and better protected from the S swell at some times of the year, but it is also MUCH more rocky. No stern anchor required. Water taxi service, there are only 2, call on channel 16. Port Captain is located to your right on the beach facing the anchorage. This is also a good beach to land a dinghy. HOWEVER, there are a lot of BIG sea lions around the anchorage and beach. They have no problem getting up on a swim step, or into a dinghy, so the water taxi may save you a messed up (or sunken) dink.

Information: Camara de Turismo on malecón has island maps in English and Spanish.

Groceries: Saturday morning at a public mercado (ask a local for directions) for the best veggies. Dos Hermanos on Quito is best tienda.

Things to Do:
• Trip to Punta Pitt, etc. (areas of Park not accessible by road): FABULOUS! We used Manuel Yepez and his new speedboat Sharksky. We organized this through the Camara de Tourism but the American intern, Lauren, may not be volunteering anymore when you visit, so you may need to contact Manuel directly. He speaks English and is a very competent captain. We hiked with a National Park Guide to see tortoises IN THE WILD (Galapaguera Natural), visited Punta Pitt (boobies, tropicbirds) and snorkeled here. We wandered down the coast, exploring amazing nooks and crannies and had lunch and a walk at a beach at Bahía Stephens. We moved onto snorkeling at Leon Dormido (Kicker Rock) where there are Galápagos sharks and then on to hike and snorkel at Isla Lobos. Twelve hours. For a party of 10 it was $50 each and worth every penny. Contact: Manuel Yepez tel: 09 95 40596
• Cab tour across the islands to the tortoise conservation center, ocean view point, El Junco Lagoon (take the volcano crater rim hike, 1 hour) and La Loberia beach with seals and marine iguanas. There are English-speaking tour guides who will also give this tour (for more money)
• Interpretive Center: go here first. Free. Explains islands' history, geology, biology.
• Boat and scuba tours
• Snorkeling from your own dinghy.
• Trails: all around Punta Carola, the beautiful beach at Cao de Horno and out to Las Tijeretas where you can snorkel with sea lions. Darwin statue here as this was his first landfall and anchorage. Wonderful and free.
• Side trip to circumnavigate Kicker Rock, about 10 miles up the coast of San Cristobal. This is an incredible rock, in three pieces, rising 500' up above the water which is 400' deep all around. Boat and dive trips to here also available.

 

-- Isla Santa Cruz: Puerto Ayora (Academy Bay) --

 

Largest town in islands.

Entry Information: Very straightforward. Keep the lighthouse on Isla Coamaño to starboard upon entry. There are several yellow mooring buoys within the anchorage and many bleach bottles marking local boat moorings, large boats may use the buoys.

Anchorage: Good holding sand bottom, but with rocky patches. Unfortunately it faces S, right where the swell comes from, so can be very bouncy. There is a lot of water taxi and tour boat traffic near the pier on the left side of the bay as you enter, so anchor to the right side of the crowd to avoid it. You will see a large orange day marker on shore to the right of the blue and white Port Captain buildings. Lining up with that seems to keep you out of most of the traffic.

Anchoring Position: 00 44.850 S 090 18.570 W, 18’ mid-tide.
Don’t go much closer to the shore than this, as it shallows up.
Stern anchors are essential, due to the swell, as well as crowded conditions. Water taxis will set and retrieve stern anchors for you for about $2.00 each. It is very crowded when the tour ships come in on Wednesday and Saturday evenings. Also, it is very entertaining to watch as they use their dinghies as tug boats. They can anchor closer than comfortable to everyone. There is no dinghy dock, so use of the water taxis is mandatory, hail on channel 16.

Things to Do:
• Tour the Darwin Research Station - tortoise pens where they are raising young ones, and pens with the adults that you can just walk around in. They also had land iguanas in three pens that you could walk around. Nice visitor center/museum with video presentation several times morning and afternoon. Say “hi” to Lonesome George.
• Bahía Tortuga over a great paved path. Free, no guide required. Marine iguanas, shore birds and 2 great beaches made up of fine white sand. Surfing and body surfing if you are willing to brave the currents (large warning signs on beach). In the lagoon at the second beach there were white-tipped sharks in the shallows, shade trees to picnic under, and fearless Darwin finches.
• Las Grietas, which is a fissure in the volcanic rock, again free. Rougher trail there - take a water taxi to the Hotel Finch dock and follow signs to begin the walk.
• Tour to private ranch with wild land tortoises. Many tour companies arrange this for about $25pp or you can get a cab driver to take you, if your Spanish is up to it. Ranch owner will provide coffee/tea. This tour also usually includes a visit to a large lava tube and to the “craters” of Los Gemelos (actually huge volcanic
gas bubbles that collapsed).
• Scuba Iguana Divers rents full air tanks for $6.00 per day. All of their dive tours are around $110 for a days trip and 2 dives and includes lunch and equipment. Also recommended is Galapagos Sub-Aqua. There are a number of other dive outfits as well. Incredible hammerhead sharks, large pelagics at Gordon Rocks and Seymour sites.
• Taxi tour to Lava Tubes "Los Tuneles de Bellavista. Described in Lonely Planet, cost about $10 for round trip taxi, $3.00 pp for the tour. Not to be missed. This same tour costs about $25 pp through the travel agents along the malecon.
• Tour to North Seymour Island and Las Bachas Beach. Bus across island to Santa Cruz-Baltra ferry dock, small cabin cruiser to North Seymour Island to see sea lions, blue-footed booby and frigate bird rookeries, lots of marine and land iguanas. Hot lunch aboard, then visit for snorkeling and beach-combing at beautiful white sand Las Bachas Beach. Flamingo lagoon behind beach.

 

 

-- Isla Isabela: Puerto Villamil --

 

More protected, calm anchorage.

Entry information: As you approach Isla Isabela from the east, there is a small island to the south of Villamil in the shape of a half moon, called Isla Tortuga and a small rock to the north of it, called Roca Bura. If you approach the island in the dark, shape a course to go between the two and avoid going north of Roca Bura.
There are breakers off Isla Isabela in this area and the swell picks up. After passing Roca Bura and Tortuga, alter course to the WSW to pass south of the shoals on the outside of Villamil and then to the NW to parallel them and to intersect the inbound 029º track that is the recommended course on the electronic chart (Chart 22529). (From the ocean, two adjacent orange pyramids on shore - actually roofs of a hostel - make a good day marker.) As you come in on the 029º course, it leads off a white beacon on the beach. You will also see a green buoy just to the left in the distance. On the chart, you will also see a light on the north end of the reef that you are leaving to starboard. The light on the chart has the characteristics Fl(2+1)15s 11m 7M. This marks the entrance to the anchorage area and is also marked by red/green channel markers, as well as a new buoy that is large and yellow and marks the anchorage.

Isla Encanto’s waypoints were:
S 01° 04.78 / W 090°52.72
S 00° 59.10 / W 090°59.04
S 00° 58.58 / W 090°58.95
S 00° 58.046 / W 090°58.315

Anchorage position (from the boat: MUSIC): 00°57.90S, 090°57.74W, in 10’ at low tide.

Anchorage: The anchorage area is bounded by low volcanic islets, is quite calm and is a lot smaller than it looks as you enter, because it is mostly filled with submerged reefs and shoals. Reefs are above water at low tide. PEREGRINATA’s anchorage position: 00º57.938'S 090º57.730'W (GPS is on WGS84) and were in 14' water at low tide.

Dinghy Landing: You can land your dinghy across the anchorage to the left of the cargo pier (Embarcadero) in front of the little restaurant/bar called “Club Nautico”. We were advised to take our fuel hose with us each time, as this seems to be the item that goes missing (you see locals walking around town carrying their hoses, so it seems a valid concern for everyone). At anything but the highest point of the tide, you will need to travel around the periphery of the anchorage in deeper water to reach the dinghy beach, rather than go straight across. You will see the rocks and sand bars. With care and experience, you can make this trip ok even in the dark at low tide. To reach town from the Embarcadero, follow the road, which bears to the left and stay left when the road branches. Town is about a 15-20 minute walk away.

Groceries: The town is small and easy to walk around visiting various small tiendas. Fresh veggies varied in quality. Frozen chicken could be found but other meats were generally unrefrigerated. If you find something you like buy it then go on to the next store.

Water: We bought locally produced agua desalinada in 5 gallon jugs from Francisco (cell phone: 086 214512) and had it delivered by Ricardo. $1.50 per 5 gallons. Francisco assured us it was desalinated water but the jugs were not sealed so we treated the water with Microdyne.

Fuel: We used jerry jugs and took a taxi to filling station (1-2 miles out of town) and a few other stops, taxi cost $3.

Souvenirs: Rare, but on the block to the west of the plaza there was a shop with attractive t-shirts.

Money: No banks and NO ATMs.

Internet: Easy Net and Albatross Net. Both were SLOW and expensive. Easy Net had a laptop station with LAN cable.

Laundry: Concha de Perla Lavaderia; a hundred yards inland from the embarcadero, on the right. One day turnaround, nicely
done.

Bike Rentals: About $4 for 3 hrs. at Bazar Veronica on main street just past hospital (heading west). Roads are all sand so traffic moves slowly.

Things to Do:
• Wildlife around the anchorage. There are sea lions that frolic around the boat and you could easily swim with them. On the small islets that surround the anchorage you can see marine iguanas, penguins and sea lions basking on the beach, as well as blue-footed boobies. All the animals let you get pretty close.
• Bike Rentals: Bazar Veronica on main street just past hospital (heading west). Roads are all sand so traffic moves slowly.
• Las Tintoreas: This is a trail around the reef and islets surrounding the anchorage. Free. Wildlife includes penguins, turtles, marine iguanas, white tipped reef sharks, sea lions, and blue footed boobies living in a volcanic landscape. The steps are in the center opening in the reef that many fishing pangas take to the open sea –just watch them.
• Tour to the volcanoes Cerro Negro and Volcan Chico. All day trip. By truck up to the agricultural area and then by horse back for two hours past Cerro Negro crater (12km acorss). Leave horses huge jaboncillo tree and then hike to the very barren, moonscape like, area of Volcan Chico (45 minutes). There are several
vents that had some hot gas escaping and some deep sink holes with steam. The last time this area erupted was 1979. Carina booked through Antonio Gil at the Hotel San Vicente. Even if it is cloudy and rainy in the anchorage, it will more than likely be clear at the volcanoes.
• Concha de Perla: Free. Just off the embarcadero is a raised walkway through ancient mangroves to a tranquil pool with a dock. Nice protected snorkeling or just a great place for a picnic.
• Tour to the Muro de Lágrimos (Wall of Tears), Mirador and Nature Trails. The wall was built after WWII by inmates of a penal colony. From there, go to the Mirador (overlook) and then walk along trails. We went into a large lava tube that goes under the ocean in the distance. You could hear the waves crashing
onto the tube and the water dripping in. We also went to Playa del Amor, which was covered in marine iguanas. We then walked back towards town, passing two lagoons, which often have pink flamingos. Locals suggest going at 6pm when they return from feeding although there were some there at mid-day too. You can arrange a taxi to take you 6km to the Wall, wait, take you to the Mirador, wait, take you to the first set of trails, from which you visit the others and walk back to town. Biking is a nice option.
• Snorkeling in the reef area with white tipped sharks. The cost is approximately $10 per person for two hours. You can go with your own dinghy by yourselves, too.
• Guided kayak tour. Hire guide from Wooden House B&B (Minino) for $25 and $5 each per hour for kayaks. To a little offshore island and coves along the coast. LOTS of sealife, surfing the waves! Alfredo Bolivar (Minino), ga_viye @ yahoo.com, phone 05-252-9008
• Cabo Rosa: This is a 25 mile panga ride to Cabo Rosa, with a stop at Roca Union. This is an unbelievable lava landscape which is negotiated by the panga driver through a series of narrow channels and arches with cactus growing on them. The collapsed lava created many tunnels and bridges that are magical. We rode around for about an hour, stopped for a snorkel excursion (wet suits advised; it's chilly!);then to a different cove for our box lunch, which we provided. Antonio Gil arranged for us to use a panguero nicknamed Cuarto de Hora (real name Dario, boat Isabela, cell 097 592 615, cuartodehora16 @ yahoo.es). We had been told he was the best and we were impressed with his skill. This trip is worth the cost. The tour boats don't go here because of the breakers. LOTS of sea turtles and huge manta rays spotted offshore.
• Centro de Crianza: Free. Follow main road west to sign (at the Iguana Crossing). Follow beautiful trail and raised walkways to tortoise rescue and breeding center. Most of the endangered species endemic to Isabela are represented here. A small gift shop sells some souvenirs.
• Lava Tunnels on West end of town up the beach road; there are many small beaches and lagoons along the way. These tunnels extend out to sea and can only be entered a small distance.
• Flamingos: Free. We saw a solitary flamingo at mid-day in the small lagoon right in town and later a group at the bigger lagoon behind the beach. Shhh, they are shy.
• Beach: Free. Watch wimbrels, plovers, sanderlings, thousands of silly looking orange crabs that skitter sideways or just the amazing turquoise blue waves crashing over offshore reefs.

 

 

 

-- Isla Baltra: Puerto Seymour --

 

International airport on this island, for Isla Santa Cruz. Some large tour boats pick up their passengers here, rather than in Puerto Ayora.

Entry Information: Easy entrance. The charts call it Caleta Aiolian, but the Port Captain's address is Puerto Seymour. Approach waypoint was 00°26.500S, 090°18.000W

Anchorage: 00°26.248S, 090°17.042W

Anchorage Notes: There are large patches of rocks in the anchorage, but there are also large patches of sand. The tour boats seem to have no problems, but look for sand. The wind seemed to be diurnal in nature and swung us around 180° morning and evening. The anchorage seems to be well protected.

Things to Do: No real tours except to get checked out of Ecuador on Isla Santa Cruz Immigration office. The crew of MUSIC caught a bus to the airport $1 pp, then a truck to the ferry terminal $1 pp.,then the ferry across to Santa Cruz, $1pp., then a cab to Puerto Ayora to check out, then back again with a stop at the Mercado $30 total. Or, you can take the airport bus, which is scheduled to meet flights, for much less. Only runs in the morning, however.
• Isla Mosquera, white sand island with sea lion colony, is about 4.5 miles from the anchorage, and possibly reachable by dinghy, although we didn’t try it.

 

 

 

-- Isla Santa Maria (Floreana): Puerto Ibarra --

 

Entry Information: Straightforward, if you avoid rocky patch noted on chart to north of anchorage area.

Approach waypoint: 01° 16.0 S 090° 30.0 W

Anchorage position: 01° 16.657 S 090° 29.436 W, in 35’

Anchorage Notes: Anchor in front of Hotel Wittmer, to the right of the Port Captain building off brown sand beach. Lots of rocky areas, but good holding in course sand off this beach. SHE WOLF first tried to anchor closer to Port Captain, but just volcanic rock bottom there.

Dinghy Landing: Beach your dinghy in front of the hotel. Sand is course, not packed down and dinghy wheels sunk in, so be ready to push hard if your dink/engine is heavy. Alternatively, you can tie your dinghy up to the concrete pier by the Port Captains office – however, be wary of surge which could abrade your dink on the rough concrete.

Things to Do:
• Highland tour: take the bus up to the end of the line and hike up to the old Wittmer farm. Turtle pen with tortoises which were the pets of Margaret Wittmer and are completely used to humans. Spring which is the only water supply on the island and caves where the Wittmers lived when they first arrived. Great island overlook. “Bus” goes to the farm early in the morning and returns right away – good for “birders” who ride up and then walk back down. Also goes at 3pm and returns at about 5 or 5:30pm. You may be able to tag along behind a tour group and listen to their guide, as the crew of SHE WOLF did, for free. The sailors on SEA TERN went up with Erica Wittmer (grand daughter of the original settler, Margaret), who guided them. Bus is about $1pp each way.
• Panga tour to “Post Office Bay”: this is an official tourist site and requires a guide. Hotel Wittmer can arrange.
• Snorkeling tour to Devil’s Crown: arrange through Hotel Wittmer.
• Have a beer and/or dinner at Hotel Wittmer, meet Margaret’s daughter, Floreana and grand daughter Erica, and look through their Yacht Book, especially the one from the early 60’s. Learn about the very interesting history of human habitation on this island. Make arrangements for dinner early in the day as the Hotel does not always have guests, or may have too many to accommodate extra heads.
• Walk or dinghy to La Loberia, sea lion rookery south of the anchorage.

 

Photos on this page by: S/V Carina and the yachts of the World ARC Sailing Rally.

-- Galapagos Islands Marine Weather --

• NOAA for Ecuador
• Ecuador and Peru Marine Forecast
• 7 Day Forecast
• Ecuador Virtual Buoy Map

 

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