Niue in the South Pacific - Cruising Blogs

Niue - We arrive at the top of the island before dawn and slow right down once we’re in the lee, pottering along at 2.5 knots until the sun comes up. We call Niue radio to advise them of our arrival. James on Cleone then radios and kindly tells us that as he doesn’t think there are any moorings free at the moment, we are welcome to tie alongside. We speak to Mandy at Arc control advising Tallulah Ruby just behind and after a bit of to’ing and fro’ing we all eventually get onto our own moorings.

It’s a very grey, overcast day with frequent bursts of torrential rain. We have a big breakfast then wait until the rain eases before heading ashore. Getting ashore is interesting; there’s quite a big swell, you have to motor up to steps on the pier, attach the lifting strap to the dinghy, attach a crane hook (the crane being kindly demonstrated by Mandy who meets us there) , take turns to jump out the dinghy at the opportune moment, then hoist the dinghy with the crane onto the pier! Mandy welcomes us to Niue, runs us up to the village, shows us where everything is and tells us about tonight’s BBQ which is being hosted by the yacht club. Due to the dinghy carry on, we soon decide we’re out for the day and don’t need to go back to the boat for anything before going out tonight! We meet Jens and Johanna who agree to jump aboard, grab our torch and switch our anchor light on, which we’re very grateful for later!

We go to customs and immigration at the police station which is straightforward, then go to the bank – not so straight forward – Annie’s visa won’t work and everyone else has mastercard – Paul kindly lends us some cash. We go to the yacht club for a drink and meet Commodore Keith who gives us great advice on what to see and do on the island, then very kindly runs us to the car hire place. En route Annie returns to the police station and is issued with her Niue driving licence – interestingly 10 NZ dollars if you’ve got your licence with you, 15 if you don’t! We haven’t time to go right round the island today so choose a short route and head off for an explore.

Niue is the World’s smallest independent nation (with a bit of a helping hand from New Zealand!) with it’s own language – Niuean (2nd language English). It’s one of the largest coral atolls but, unlike most islands we’ve been to, has no beaches, being surrounded by 20 metre cliffs which have numerous caves, chasms and crevices which are the main attraction for exploring by foot, swimming and snorkelling.

A reef surrounds the island and anchoring can apparently be treacherous, however as the Niue yacht moorings are new we feel secure. At the mooring the water is so clear we can see 60 feet down.

The population has apparently dropped to approximately 1200 from 4000 since they put in an airport. Everyone has New Zealand citizenship and 20,000 Niueans live there. There are therefore many abandoned houses and ghost villages scattered around the island – we can’t believe how deserted much of the island feels as we drive around.

The island is roughly 12 miles long, 8 miles across and there’s a 40 mile coast road running all the way round. People are very friendly, everyone smiles and waves as they walk or drive past.

We drive through a forested area of the island which Keith has told us is full of rare hardwood trees which they are trying to protect. The island is also rich in uranium deposits. Keith tells us of an unusually high incidence of cancer in one of the small villages in the south – no-one has yet been able to work out why. Keith also tells us about, and shows us, some of the devastation caused by the cyclone in January 2004 which claimed 2 lives. Keith is a mine of information on the island and we appreciate his time. We stop at a few spots during our drive, and finally at a bar which claims that we will see whales at 4pm. When we ask about this, the landlord tells us, seemingly tongue in cheek ,that we have to drink quite a bit before they appear. However, on our 1st G&T Annie sees a whale, all of us then see it making it’s way along the coast –except the landlord who seems to think we’re pulling his leg!

We carry on back to the yacht club where there’s quite a gathering of yachties and locals, then onto the village hall for the BBQ (which has now been plated up for us, and is served in the hall due to the weather). We are all made very welcome and a good night gets even better when the local farm manager gets out his banjo and yukelele, and a full on sing song, and dancing, develops until we’re thrown out the hall at 10pm. It’s then fun and games getting the dinghy back in the water with the crane, then the motley crew, particularly Brian, into it and back aboard! Stewy and Brian then decide to extend their revelry by drinking BMWs (Baileys,Whisky and Malibu) and putting the World to right well into the early hours!

UPDATE: Friday in Niue

Just before dawn a horrendous squall passes over us. Remarkably, some of the crew sleep through it! Once the gusts have eased it’s still torrential rain. Jens calls over for the diving gear – Annie says there’s no way she’s going when it’s like this. Breakfast aboard then we pack up for our day out, hoping for the best.

We start off getting our business done; customs, immigration, online banking, paying for car-hire, groceries etc. Once all that’s out the way we meet with Cleone (James, Norfy, Elizabeth & Will) for coffee and plan a route round the island to make the most of our hire cars. Brian heads off on his bike and we arrange to meet him later. First stop is a walk through jungle to Avaiki Cave. After trekking through a coral forest path we reach the cave; stunning rock formations and a turquoise pool with tiny sapphire fish. Next stop is the Limu Pools; a walk to two pools linked by a short path, one where you swim through an arch to the other side and where we snorkel with the snakes – extremely venomous but never known to attack! The water consists of thermal eddies so you are constantly swimming through warm, then cool, patches, the cool causing “wrinkly” vision, the warm very clear. There’s a huge variety of fish, many that we’ve never seen before. The water is much cooler, but well worth the initial shock to the system!

Matapa Chasm, a few miles further on, is another deep chasm which we snorkel through to where huge rocks provide a barrier from the crashing waves. We get out the water and climb over to the other side to watch the sea breaking up to our feet and over the rocks. Guide books tell us this is where the Niue kings used to swim. It’s easy to see why as the water is crystal clear and there are even more unusual fish. When we walk back to the car, the little bar that was shut when we arrived has opened; there’s no food but we make do with a lunch of beer and crisps, being the health gurus that we are!. Off we jaunt to Uluvehi Landing where there’s an expensive landing station built and paid for by New Zealand which is in entirely the wrong place and has never been used. When we see it we can see why – no matter how solid a landing station you had here, you would never be able to land - the coast has the full force of the prevailing wind, with a shallow, very jagged shallow reef all round….enough said. There are several caves, covered in fossils, and on closer inspection, they could well have been occupied at some time. There are several traditional boats stored in the caves, as in most of the caves we explore, although it is difficult to tell when they were last used, or visited – they look old and abandoned. Ian decides he’d like to get one of these boats back home for the Kelvin! At this point, Norfy and Will go to get the shops before they close so they head back to town and we arrange to meet them at Togo Chasm.

As we drive through the villages it becomes increasingly apparent how decimated the population has become due to the high number of boarded up and abandoned buildings. Small villages seem to be occupied at less than a quarter of their full capacity and we feel sorry , perhaps wrongly, for the few children we do see, who must wonder where (and why) everyone has gone. Although we hear that about one fifth of the population are Government officials, and that there are 20 MPs, the roads are poorly maintained and there appear to be few community facilities. The villages seldom even have a village shop, as Brian finds out on his cycle round when he nearly dies of thirst! The island is very lush and it is difficult for us to understand why more people aren’t trying to make a living on this very individual little island which seems to have a lot of potential, not only in natural resources but also in the friendliness of the people

En route, we decide to make a detour to explore an off road track leading out of Liku village. Although the road is steep, we negotiate our way down until it stops, then we follow a path towards the sea, down stone steps and through a rock arch. We are rewarded with a vast, flat ,pink coral plateau, surrounded by caves and dotted with small shallow pools . The waves crash off the reef right in front of us. This is a stunning spot, and very different to the previous.

After a wander around we realise we’re going to run out of daylight soon so press on to reach our final destination, Togo chasm, one of the most photographed spots on the island. There Norfy and Will are waiting for us along with Brian who they picked up along the way. It involves a 20 minute walk through the jungle, then a sprachle down a steep marked path through the rocks .At the end of that, there’s an almost vertical 50 foot ladder down into a sandy little oasis with palm trees, and entirely enclosed by the surrounding rock. There are enormous boulders blocking this area from the sea, although it looks as if it might just be possible to scrawl through them. As it’s getting dark we don’t have time to stop as we don’t want to get lost in the jungle – Ex Army Colonel James ensures we know the script for our walk back so that we don’t get split up, and tells Elizabeth, at the rear, that on his normal exercises, she would have to walk backwards! Luckily we make it back to the cars in time, but are glad we didn’t leave it any later!

We drive back to town where we join the Niue Yacht Club and say our fond farewells to Commodore Keith Vial, without whose advice we wouldn’t have had such a good day. We meet Tallulah Ruby and Mandy and decide we’ll all go for a curry. The curry house is a very simple affair, with a straightforward menu; beef, lamb or chicken, hot, medium or mild! It’s excellent, and afterwards we go straight back to the boat where thankfully, Jens and Johanna have switched on our mooring light while returning the diving gear. The lads manage to get the rugby, All Blacks vs Ireland ,on the TV so all happy! This is only the second time the boat TV has been on since we left – the first time was to watch Billy Connoly’s DVD where he bemoans the fact that his wife sold their house to buy a boat and sail across the Pacific!

- Jus'Do It 3 in Niue
World ARC Sailing Rally

Yacht: Graptolite in Niue - Snakes & Whales

19:03.29S 169:55.54

On a mooring buoy off Alofi, Niue, Pacific Ocean

The weather has been somewhat wet today but we put on wetsuits and air-tanks
and had a dive with hundreds of sea-snakes through a sea-cave. We have done
enough dives now to know this was something a bit special. As usual you will
have to wait for us to get good internet links for you to see the pictures.

Tonight's entertainment was a barbecue in the village hall. There was also
local chap (I think a noni fruit farmer) who gave us an excellent
Kiwi/Polynesian sing-along accompanied by banjo and ukulele.

While writing this, we got the sound of some very heavy breathing just off
the back of the boat. It must have been a whale. We got the spotlights out
but saw nothing. The whale watching season has only just started here.

- M

Yacht: Lady Kay - Niue

Hi
Lady Kay is now in Niue, which is a largish island formed from a great chunk of coral which has been thrust up about 200 foot in the air. The coast is a series of limeston cliffs with amazing rock formations and loads of caves. The island is full of chasms and caves full of stalactites and stalagmites.

Together with Ann and Don on Harmonie we hired a small minibus and spent a day driving round the island. See 'photo of magic bus on 'main' road around the island. We saw hardly anybody on our trip and once out of town we only passed about five cars, three of which were hired by other boats. The best spot was a walk along the top of a chasm to these amazing caves and sea arches. Aided by a sturdy rope we scrambled down through the caves to the reef below - it was low tide and you could walk on the reef and see fish and coral in these amazingly clear pools. We then took another short walk to a large pool which is part fresh and part salt water. It is where the Kings used to bathe. It was a funny effect because the fresh water percolating down through the porous rock formed a cool layer about a foot or so deep on top of the much warmer sea water below. Great for swimming because you got your freshwater shower as you emerged from the water.

The people here are great and we have had a couple of really good evening with them. The first we went to was a massive feast with almost everyone in the village cooking and bringing along a dish. The food was really great and ranged from various forms of sea food, including coconut crab and limpets, to roast wild pig. The food was followed by girls and boys of different ages performing a range of dances. Guess who got chosen by one of the older girls to join in - I thought she was coming to invite Michael, but unfortunately it was me - I did my best though! Apart from our first day here, the weather has been overcast and somewhat wet - not used to this. Due to an unseasonal low. Also means little or no wind interspersed with high wind squalls on our way to Tonga.

Getting ashore at Niue is quite an operation. The swells are very large and first you have to time your leap onto the steps to coincide with the top or bottom of a swell depending on tide. You are still likely to get water up your knees before you get to the top of the steps. To protect the dingy you then have to winch the dingy up onto the dock and move it away on the trolley - see 'photo.

We had a major problem yesterday with a blocked toilet (and still not fully resolved or should I say dissolved). Michael worked on it all yesterday, and Rob, who devised a special rotory plunging tool, managed to make a break through after a hard morning's work today. Not a pleasant job.

We actually left Niue bright and early this morning en route to Tonga. The winds and weather are not entirely favourable, but we hope to get there the day after tomorrow after crossing the date line.

Cheers for now
J, M & R

Yacht: Cleone in Niue

What a strange, lovely, sad place.

In 2004, before Cyclone Heta hit this island, killing two people and inundating the island, 6000 people lived here. Now there are only 1200, and they are still leaving. Sustained only by generous grants from New Zealand (although Niue is independent, they are a new Zealand Protectorate, and the Queen is still the Head of State, and much revered), Niue is either going to die on its feet, or is due for a revival.

In some ways, it is another beautiful Pacific island, but it has unique features. There are no mountains, but it sits nicely above the sea. However, this did not prevent a house ninety feet up from being flattened during Heta, and it did not prevent two metres of sea-water washing down the high street (if you can call it that), some 50 feet above the sea. This took away many shops and buildings, many of which never got rebuilt.

The English-speaking population are generous, charming and friendly and visitors are treated like royalty. There is a sizeable expatriate New Zealand population (sizeable is relative - there are apparently twenty thousand Niueans or people of Niuean descent living in NZ), and they make a considerable contribution, and were to the fore in the welcome given to the World ARC boats. Tourism is about the only industry able to generate real wealth at the moment, but though there is a decent airport, New Zealand is a three hour flight away and there is no other practicable route. Two hundred or so yachts call by every year, but the anchorage is deep and poorly protected.

Putting all that aside, the wide open bay faces west and has a small jetty for the occasional supply ship, one of which arrived during our stay. Niue's yacht club may not boast many yachts, but it has a convenient club house, with cold New Zealand beers always available. Twenty substantial moorings have been laid, and the World ARC fleet laid securely to these, rolling slightly in the persistent swell. The club boasts over 1000 members world-wide, and having been here, you can understand why. Nothing was too much trouble for them, and all our questions were answered, and as far as they could, all our needs were met, and we were entertained royally by them to boot.

So we have done our laundry, bought some very welcome fresh food, been around the island and attended two great parties. The first was a welcoming feast of amazing local food; it seemed that practically everyone on the island had been involved with its preparation. There were all sorts of delicacies, a great deal of delicious fish and shellfish, pasta, breadfruit, salads, two whole roast pigs and several chocolate cakes! And after this feast the the local dancing teams were on hand to entertain us. It was a memorable night. But funnily enough, although we were tired, it was only 9.30 pm when we got back to the boat - we were very glad to get to bed. The next day was a quiet one - laundry, a walk round the town, and some stuff on the boat. And in the evening, it was off to the Yacht Club for a couple of beers before the Barbecue. But I forgot to mention the rain. We could have been in Scotland (but how often do you spend a rainy day in Scotland in just shorts and no worry about the midges? - Ed); it was raining hard during the night, it rained persistently most of the morning and it was still raining in the evening. So it was back to the village hall, where beer and wine flowed (kick-started by Admiral Insurance, to whom thanks) and a massive plate of food was served to all. Northern Sky's Gerry had a night off - a local (expatriate) banjo player was on hand to lead the singing!

Yesterday we hired a car and went touring. The island boasts magnificent scenery - massive caves, wonderful rock and coral formations, superb snorkelling, thick jungle, stunning beaches, the whole nine yards. Sharks, tropical fish, sea snakes (deadly poisonous, but very friendly) and pilot whales are there for all to see. The infrastructure is fine; there are decent roads around and across the island, proper schools, a 11000V electrical transmission system (all underground - it must have cost a fortune) which goes to every village and supplies every house. There is a telephone system (although the mobile phone net does not allow visitors any access) and plenty of water. But every village is like a ghost town - three quarters of the houses are empty. Some are boarded up, some have already fallen into disrepair, and some still have chairs on the verandas and abandoned cars and boats parked outside and look as if the owners just walked away expecting to be back later. It was reminiscent of a war zone such as Bosnia in the 90s. It won't take long for the jungle to reclaim them all. And because there are so few people, there is a real danger that the jungle will swallow up much of the rest of the island. Paths to the picturesque beaches and coves are becoming overgrown, shelters and facilities have fallen into disrepair and most bars and restaurants have already closed. Rumours abound: there's uranium here, but it sits in below the natural water storage in the middle of the island; the Chinese and Japanese want to exploit the timber, but the locals, and I am sure the government of New Zealand, are against it; there used to be a small long-lining fishing fleet until earlier this year, but the fish have all gone - possibly victims of the burgeoning colony of Pilot whales. Whatever the truth, something is going to have to change soon or this delightful little country will effectively cease to exist.

We are off to Tonga today ? it looks like a 240 or so damp and windless miles, and more delights to follow. We will be in touch.

All well with us, and best wishes to everyone.
James, Chris, Elizabeth and Will
Yacht Cleone - Niue - South Pacific - World ARC Sailing Rally